Who wants to save $800?
Did you say $800?
Why, yes. Yes, I did.
Back when I started the kitchen refresh, one of the most show-stopping, budget-busting estimates I had to deal with was the cost of window treatments.
I will never forget it. When the sales lady said $800…just for the window hardware… I thought she was going to have to slap me so I’d breathe again.
I tell ya, it was a real no-can-do moment for me.
Yes, it’s true. Drapery hardware can be as expensive as the draperies themselves. And, sometimes, the hardware doesn’t even fit. This is especially true when draping a bay window. Even though bays are supposed to be standard sizes, angles can be slightly off from one builder/building process to the next.
To decrease the cost and to get the fit that I wanted, I abandoned traditional bay window hardware and opted to make my own. Today, I will show you my $8.00 floating rods….which is the cost…not for ONE rod…but for the entire window.
I know! Right?
How’s this for a materials list?
Furring strip – Cost about a $1.00 for an 8-foot section – Just get one, but make sure it’s straight.
Eye hooks – Find in the hardware section – I used these guys – $5.21 at my home improvement store.
Tape – I used plain old masking tape (less than $1.00 per roll), but for a tighter grip, suggest packing or duct tape.
Drywall anchors – Needed if the hooks are attaching into drywall only – Not necessary if the hooks go through the drywall and securely into the wood.
But…before the rods:
Let’s start with the underpinning of the board and batten at the top of the windows. This will explain why I didn’t have to use drywall anchors for the eye hooks. And, who knows…this simple idea might work for you, too.
This bay area was part of a total room refresh. The original valence was hung using about a million round finials secured to the wall. When it was removed, about a million holes remained in the drywall.
Since I wanted to do some kind of unique window application, I elected to just cover the damages.
And finally, board and batten finished off the treatment (link here).
After that, the rods were assembled.
Are you ready?
(1) I measured the size rod that I wanted for each panel. The outer windows were 9-inches each. The two panels on the picture window were 10-inches each. This covered the wood on the window up to the glass, but not any of the glass. And, it extended the panel wide until the wall made a bend.
(2) Then, two eyehooks per rod were screwed into place on the wall and parked horizontally so the hooks on the furring strip could sit on top of the hooks in the wall. I couldn’t handle the camera and the installation at the same time so here’s an example.
Pretend the top furring strip (picture left) is the wall and the eyehooks are attached. If the eyehooks go through the drywall and into wood, then no drywall anchor is needed. But, if the eyehooks only go into the drywall (which is only about 1/4-inch thick), then anchors are needed. Now, pretend the bottom furring strip is the rod (picture left). Notice the eyehooks will match up exactly when the two come together (picture right).
Then the rod will be placed on top of the eyehooks in the wall and wired together with picture hanging wire.
At this point, if the drapery is secure, then mission accomplished. But, my drapery was heavy and really pulled the wire so I wrapped each eyehook pair with masking tape to hold the rod more securely and straight.
And, the drapery was shirred onto the rod (below left).
The assembly of the rod to the wall eyehooks occurred with the drapery already shirred on the rod. Yea, it was a giant pain, but just the way it had to work.
But, the trade-off was that the rods provided the ultimate in custom size, shape, and flexibility. So, for this, I tolerated the difficulty in wiring the eyehooks together with the heavy fabric attached.
As you may have guessed, the reason these rods are called floating is because they can be adjusted left, right, up, or down. This is especially helpful if windows or walls are not plumb. The rods can help even out the lack of building accuracy.
And, that’s all there is to it.
In case you haven’t seen the entire room, another project in this room refresh is the blue chest — that was once a TV cabinet — now divided in half and refinished with Fusion Mineral Paint. Details on this redo are here.
To create interest on the walls, board and batten was installed without any miter cuts or nails. This post includes the wood work located between the drapery panels. The details are here.
Fun lights for nightime showcase the woodwork. The lamplights on either side also have a little secret (details here).
And last, but not least, the post about how to get custom-look draperies from ready-made panels is explained here.
As always….it’s such a joy to have you stop by. If you have any questions, please add them to the comment section (below).
And, thank you in advance for pinning and sharing……